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Cartagena has seen slavery come and go, but there was one man who fought against it long before it was abolished. His name was Pedro Claver.
Pedro Claver was born in Verdu, Spain on 26 June, 1580. When aged just 13, his mother died, to be followed by his elder brother's death a few days later. When he was 22 he joined the Jesuits. On the day he made his vows, he wrote that he wished to "...do God's service, as if I were a slave..."
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Travel Tales
Colombia, South America
12/25/00 - Christmas Day, Cartagena
Had a hard time getting out of bed this morning. Woke up at 8:00am, then was in and out of sleep till 10:30am. It is still difficult to sleep, as I am a bit anxious. I keep thinking that the word is out about the gringo in Hotel Baluarte, and await the knock on my door some night. Actually, it is quite stressful all day here. Tension is in the air, and everyone seems a bit on edge. Maybe I will have an ulcer by the time I leave.
Well, it was Christmas Day today. I have now spent Christmas on four different continents. At home in North America of course. This year in South America. Last year in Africa. The year before that in Utah, and the year before that in Russia. Next year I will be home. Anyway, got out of bed and wanted to take a picture at Franco?s, the make shift Italian restaurant. So I went and grabbed a coke, then went to Franco?s and chatted with him briefly. Asked if I could take a couple pictures, and he said sure in his little squeaky voice. So I took a couple shots, then went back to my room. Some girl was checking in, and the guy downstairs was putting together a bicycle. He had no camera, so I gave him one of my throw aways. The girl never left her room the entire day today. I think she is quite scared? Must be American.
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Because the Pan-American Highway grinds to a halt just past Panama City, there is no road access between North and South America. The would-be traveller has 3 options: flying, which will cost about $US160, sailing, or trekking through the Darien Gap. Since the Gap has become increasingly dangerous due to guerrilla activity and smuggling, the Darien option is not for the faint-hearted. To sail, on the other hand, is not only safer and more comfortable, it is in some ways more economical than flying. In the late nineties there was a passenger ferry service - the Crucero Express - between Cartagena and Colon that proved to be short-lived. But it is still possible to hitch a lift on a cargo ship or pleasure boat. By asking around the two main yacht clubs in Panama, in Colon and Panama City, you might be able to get a lift. Some skippers charge for the trip; others give free passage in exchange for working aboard; while a precious few actually pay the crew for their time and labours. The latter category usually apply only to experienced sailors.
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If one was trying to envisage the perfect military hero, Don Blas de Lezo would be a prime candidate. Indeed, if he was from the English speaking world, numerous movies and books would have already immortalized him: a gallant man who although incapacitated by leg and arm amputations, and the loss of one eye, saved a city against overwhelming odds. Locals today joke about him, waving their fists whenever his name is mentioned and cursing: "Because of him, we don't speak English!"
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The traditional area for backpackers hotels is the Getsemaní neighbourhood: Oldest part of the walled city. The center in walking distance, Avenida Arsenal nightlife spots just around the corner, you can find a bed from USD 4.00.
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Visitors to Cartagena can hardly fail to notice the larger-than-life bronze statues of a semi-naked Indian maiden that stands on a traffic island near Chambacu, and an equally impressive statue of a conquistador that stands in the Plaza de los Coches. Their true lives are shrouded in mystery and legend, though enough facts have survived to ensure their immortality as a historical figures.
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Cartagena starts the Carneval in november: Within one week there are the Miss Colombia finals, Cartagena independence day and the opening of the Caribbean Carnaval season.
Last week of february Cartagena gets busy again. Colombian tourists as well as foreign visitors come to party: They go to Barranquilla, just 1,5 hours by bus or taxi. Barranquilla hosts Colombia's main Carnaval.
Have a look at some pictures or the offical homepage.
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Everyone dreams of getting a job by the beautiful Caribbean, exploiting their knowledge of English to pay the rent while sipping Piña Coladas in a hammock under a beach palm on the weekends. For some this is a reality. For others it can be a frustratingly fruitless pipe dream. English teaching jobs are relatively easy to find, if English is your native tongue. The government has recently legislated that all university graduates must have studied some formal English lessons. In this part of the world, American English is preferred, though the good news for teachers is that the schools are not really in a position to be too selective, as Colombia's mala fama keeps many prospective teachers away, and teachers of many nationalities are hired. Formal qualifications are obviously an advantage, but not always necessary. What is necessary is a good amount of patience to get the visa and a good contract.
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Where to boogie in Cartagena without getting ripped off!
Cartagena has many nightspots in and around Centro and Bocagrande. Many of these places are tourist traps: some charge foreigners 20,000 pesos for entry while underage locals enter for free; others charge you to sit at a table, others are just downright expensive (like US$40 for a bottle of rum that sells in the supermarket for $10). If you are adventurous, and want to experience the real Cartagena scene, where girls dance on the tables to the strains of Shakira and Joe Arroyo while the boys whisk their partners around as if they were a rag doll, then you could try some of the places below. Many are situated near Castellano, on Avenida Pedro Heredia, which has increasingly become known as Avenida de la Rumba, the `Party Avenue'. You can get there by taxi from centro for less than US$2, or about US25 cents by bus.
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Cartagena
